Processing of textile yarns and materials



Patented Sept. 8, 1936 PROCESSING OF TEXTILE \YARNS AND I 1 MATERIALS Camille Dreyfus, New York, N. Y., and William Whitehead, Cumberland, Md.,

assigrmors to Celanese Corporation of America, a corporation of Delaware No Drawing.

8 Claims.

This invention relates to the finishing and treatment of textileyarns and materials comprising organic derivatives of cellulose and the like with substances which impart thereto improved textile properties and other improved properties to which we shall refer later.

An object of the invention is the treating of a yarn comprising organic derivatives of cellulose to improve its adaptability to being formed into 10 textiles and the ease with which it can be handled prior to weaving or knitting.

Another object of the invention is the treating of yarn comprising organic derivatives of cellulose such that various steps now necessary in the 15 production of a textile may be dispensed with.

5 only involved added expense but also required the exercise of great care to prevent damage to the yarn in such processing. We have found that these difliculties may be overcome and other advantages attained by application of certain wax-like bodies to yarns, threads, etc. comprising organic derivatives of cellulose. For instance yarn coated with wax-like bodies may be wound into a solid cheese and especially in the initial winding operation. The package wound of waxed 5 yarn is solid and non-slipping permitting the ready winding of untwisted yarns.

Many advantages lie in an ability to use yarns of no twist or of lower twist than has heretofore been possible in that such yarns are more 40 pliable and supple and are less expensive to form.

They impart more covering power and a softer handle to materials made therefrom. Further it is possible to make woven fabrics therefrom with a more uniform ratio of crimpage in the warp and in the weft, thereby making firmer fabrics in which the weft slips less readily over the warp in subsequent wear. These advantages are attained in our invention by employing yarn of little or no twist, but which has been 50 coated with wax-like bodies.

It has been the custom in the weaving-of taffetas and poplin-tafietas and like fabrics to size the warp more or less heavily to protect it from chafing in the weaving process and in such quali- '5 ty of fabric it was necessary to weave with con- Applieation September 8, 1933, Serial No. 688.688

siderable tension on the warp to avoid a defect in the fabric generally known as frostiness". This high tension causes the warp to be comparatively straight and permits the weft to slip. By employing our invention, yams of organic derivatives of cellulose that have been coated with waxlike bodies may be employed in the warp, which may be woven quite slackly without the appearanc of any frostiness and with substantially more resistance to slip of the weft over the warp in subsequent wear. The organic derivative of cellulose yarn processed according to our invention permits weaving with less tension on the warp thereby forming less picks without slipping. Yarn coated with the wax-like bodies of our invention gives as high as 25% greater slipping stress than normal standard yarn.

Another difficulty that has been encountered in the processing of textile yarns of organic derivatives of cellulose is that in the circular knitting of yarns, perfect stitch shape has been extremely difiicult to obtain and only then ,with continuedand accurate machine adjustments on some yarns. This may be due largely to a varying coefficient of friction between needle, tensioning devices, guides and the yarn. With the use of organic derivative of cellulose yarn treated with wax-like bodies in accordance with our invention the tensioning devices may be eliminated and the treated yarn lubricates the guides thereby permitting perfect stitch shape. Fabrics circular. knitted from organic derivative of cellulose yarn treated according to our invention do not on the knitting needles in knitting processes producing what is generally known as a needle splitand a defective place in the fabric. In accordance with our invention organic derivative of cellulose yarn of low twist and ofno twist coated with wax-like bodies may be knit or woven without needle splitting or dividing of threads on the pirn, while preventing tugging tensions, drawing in of the selvedge, and otherwise imperfect fabrics.

Difliculty has always been experienced in the processing of textile materials in that oil stains contaminated with metal from bearings and the heretofore practical.

of cellulose yarn is treated according to our invention, it may bewound to a cheese, cone or other cross wound package at the metier, thus eliminating the necessity of rewinding and twisting operations. our invention also permits the winding of a larger cross wound package than There has been a mechanical limit to the speed at which the cross wound packages may be wound both in respect to damage to the yarn by very high feed rates with very high traverse speeds such as, for example, a 4" length cheese winding at 300 metres per minute with a traverse speed of 300 strokes per minute and in respect to mechanical stresses resulting in damage in the traverse mechanism. Without the aid of our invention it has been impracticable to wind a cross wound package of low twist or no twist yarn as the result was a package of yarn not sufliciently firn'i for handling and which could not be used in subsequent textile processing without slipping and entangling.

We have now found that when organic derivative of cellulose yarn is treated with waxlike bodies, the traverse mechanism of a cross wound package winding device may be caused to reciprocate more slowly and/or the feed rate of the yarn may be very substantially increased without the formation of. a soft or diflicult package. We find that when we wind cheeses of un twisted yarn, either in the process of the initial formation of a synthetic yarn or in the textile processing of yarns, our processed yarn not only produces a solid firm package with free delivery in further processing, but causes the filaments to be close together with the result that in further textile processing no matter how severe, for example warp knitting, the yarn is processed without damage or dividing of the thread. Fabrics knitted of an untwisted or low twist'organic derivative of. cellulose yarn made possible by our invention have more covering power than those knitted from twisted yarns due to the absence of twist and the greater spread of the thread.

Further such fabrics have a softer and more easy ing, etc. on which' smoother delivery there results in a more uniform fabric.

The process of our invention is applicable to textile yarns and like materials comprising filaments of organic derivatives of cellulose such as organic esters of cellulose and organic ethers of cellulose. Examples of organic esters of cellulose are cellulose acetate, cellulose formate,

cellulose propionate and cellulose butyrate and.

examples of organic ethers of cellulose are ethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose and butyl cellulose. The organic derivative of cellulose filaments may be substantially continuous or they may be in the form of. short lengths or staples associated together by twisting.

In accordance with our invention in any winding operation of a yarn or filament, we apply a wax-like body which is emulsifiable in water, soap solution, solvents and like scouring baths. The wax-like body contains at least a proportion of one or more such emulsifiable wax-like bodies as the mono-stearate of diethylene glycol, the mono-stearate of ethylene glycol, the monostearate of .triethylene glycol, the monoor distearate of glycerol, triethanolamine stearate, diethanolamine stearate, mono-ethanolamine stearate, ethylene glycol oleate, diethylene glycol oleate, triethylene glycol oleate, the mono- .or di-oleate of glycerol, triethanolamine oleate, diethanolamine oleate, monoethanolamine oleate or other like waxy bodies.

In place of or with the stearates and. oleates above specified the palmitic or other higher mono-fatty acid esters of glycol, polyglycols, glycerols and higher polyhydric alcohols may be used.

The wax-like bodies may be used alone or in combination with other bodies, such as cresylic acid, butyl acetate, polymerized fatty acid and glycero or glyco boric acid or cetyl alcohol or esters or ethers of. higher fatty alcohols.

Beneficial results may be obtained by incorporating in the treating material mixtures of two or more of the above named compounds as will be seen from a. further description of our invention.

Forcertain purposes it is advisable to add to any or a mixture of the above readily removable wax-like bodies, a proportion of the so-called non-emulsified wax-like materials to act as sizes or hardeners such as ceresin wax, beeswax, stearic acid, stearin, palmitic acid, ozokerite wax, carnauba wax, chlorinated naphthalene and like bodies, as these when mixed with the emulsifiable wax-like bodies emulsify also in water, soap solutions and the like.

For purposes of plastifying and softening these wax-like bodies, we may also apply to the yarn simultaneously with the application of the waxlike body or in a separate operation, softening materials such as olive oil, oleic acid, glycols, diethylene glycol, glycerols and/or their esters and ethers. 'With or in place of the above plasticizers or softeners, we may apply cotton seed oil, tung oil, rape seed oil and the like as carriers.

The invention is applicable to the treatment of yarns or filaments, under which terms are included threads, assemblies or bundles of a number of continuous filaments which may be in parallel relationship or which may be twisted together, artificial bristles, straws, short lengths of staple fibres, or yarn spun from such staple fibres. Yarns may be employed having therein or thereupon effect material such as pigments, filling materials, dyes or lakes; fire retardants such as beta chlornaphthalene, triphenyl phosphate, tricresyl phosphate or the like.

The wax-like bodies may be applied in any suitable manner. For example they may be applied by contacting the yarn with a wick, roller, disc or other furnishing device, feeding the waxlike body dissolved in a molten state in warm naphtha, xylene, olive oil, glycols, glycerols, triethanolamine esters and ethers or mixtures of same, diethylene glycol, ethylene glycol and glycerols, mineral oil, the monomethyl or diethyl ether of ethylene glycol or their acetates, cyclohexanol, ethyl oxybutyrate, butyl alcohol, butyl acetate, ethylene diamine or other suitable solvent depending on the constituents of the material forming th wax-like bodies. The solvent sub sequently vaporates or drys by oxidation leaving the filaments coated with the wax-like body.

We may dip hanks of the yarn in such molten solution. Again we may force such molten solution through the windings of a bobbin, cheese or other package of yarn. Another modification of the process is to apply such solution by spraying.

If desired such wax-like bodies may be applied to the yarn in the form of aqueous emulsions by any of the other furnishing means described above.

The wax-like bodies may be applied in any winding operation. For example, the wax-like body may be applied to artificial yarn immediately after they leave the spinning chambers and we have found that they are excellent lubricants for cellulose acetate yarn formed by the dry evaporative method in which process the yarn may be twistedby the cap spinning method and requires considerable lubrication to avoid chafing of the filaments on the cap edge. The wax-like bodies may also be applied in winding operations subsequent to the winding at the metier or spinning chamber, for example in unwinding a cap spun package for twisting and rewinding onto a cheese.

The suitable amount of wax-like body for application to obtain desirable textile properties will vary according to the nature of the process and the fabricated goods. The approximate amount of wax-like body applied for each particular purpose and nature of wax-like body will be apparent from the examples given. Usually we find these requirements call for an amount of a waxlike'body equal to to 20% of the weight of the yarn that is treated. The solidity of the wax and its melting point also will vary somewhat according to the wax-like bodies used, the nature of the process used and the fabric produced. Some processes call for a comparatively hard wax-like body while others call for a comparatively soft or oily wax-like body. For example, some processes appear to be improved more by the employment of a 10% finish of diethylene glycol stearate while others are improved by a finish of 5% olive oil in which has been melted 10% diethylene glycol stearate on the weight of the olive oil. By the use of hard wax-like bodies yarn may be woven as warp without any further and the pattern has to be followed by the operative in order to avoid mechanical error.

We find that certain of the wax-like bodies listed above such as triethanolamine stearate or oleate have pronounced solvent power for the fugitive colors such as Acid Green G (Color,

Index No. 666), Violet 5 B or Xylene Blue (Color Index No. 712). Likewise when we incorporate glycols or other polyhydric alcohols and/or their ethers and/or their esters, we may dissolve a tint or color in these as they are solvents for suitable fugitive colors.

By way of describing our invention still further and not with the intention of limiting its scope thereby, we give the following specific examples.

Example I Diethylene glycol stearate which may contain some free stearic acid is taken and dissolved at 25% concentration in naphtha at 55 C. Cellulose acetate yarn is spun by the dry evaporative method at denier and at 200 metres per minute feed rate. The yarn is wound up and twisted to about 1 turn per inch by the cap spinning method, employing a spindle speed of around 11,000 R. P. M. In its passage from the spinning cabinet to the feed roller or anywhere else along its passage between the cabinet and the bobbin, the yarn is contacted with a small steel roller rotating in the molten wax solution, rotating at a convenient speed applying 5% wax to the yarn. We

i find that the naphtha wax mixture remains molton and of a lubricative nature until after the yarn is wound on the bobbin and that no undesirable deposits of wax accumulate on guides, cap edges, etc.

This yarn may be circular knit with a multiple feed machine with spring or latch needles without further twist. Still further it may be woven in warp without further twist or without sizing of the yarn and at substantially lower warp tensions, thereby avoiding much accidental strain of warps with the production of streakiness and improving the solidity of the fabric in respect to slip of weft over warp. For example, in a fabric of the following construction, we have found an improvement of 50% in the resistance of slip of the weft over the warp when compared with a similar fabric produced by the normal methods involving sizing of the warp.

WarpCellulose acetate yarn-450. denier 40 filaments 0.9-1 turns per inch. Weaving reed-42 dents per inch Reed width40%" Width throughreed with edges39.69" Number of ends per dent-2 Total ends in warp without edges- 3334 Nature of entering and number of shafts-6 skip Weave-tabby Filling-Cellulose acetate yarn-150 denier 40 filaments 0.9-1 turns per inch 60 picks per inch Raw width39 Dyed and finished width-39" We find also that by twisting the warp of the waxed yarn 2%; turns per inch, thisincreased resistance to slip is not reduced.

In respect to the circular knit fabric, this knits with a perfect stitch shape and without rowiness, even when the twist of the yarn is reduced to 0.9 turns per inch.

Still further, we find that such yarn may be pirned and woven as weft, for example, in the same construction as we have above specified.

Without the wax on the yarn, the thread splits and the filaments chafe on the pirn tube also the thread divides around the tube causing fabric defects. With the wax-like bodies, however, present on the yarn, the filaments adequately lie together. Fabrics produced with this 1 turn per inch in the Weft and warp have more cover and are substantially softer than those heretofore produced which have had at least 2.5 turns per inch in both weft and warp.

Example II We repeat Example I using triethanolaminestearate or diethanolamine stearate or monoethanolamine stearate, instead of the diethylene glycol stearate.

Example III 7 We repeat Example I employing any mixture of diglycol stearate and triethanolamine stearate.

Example IV We repeat Examples I, II and III employing partly or wholly palmitic acid as the fatty acid radical in place of stearic acid.

Example V We repeat Example I substituting a mixture of 80 parts triethanolamine stearate and 20 parts ozokerite wax.

Example VI During the winding and twisting of 75 denier cellulose acetate yarn to 28 turns per inch for subsequent weaving as warp and weft in a voile or ninon type of fabric, we contact the yarn with' Example VII We repeat Example'I but instead of dissolving the diethylene glycol stearate in warm naphtha, we apply to the yarn a molten mixture of 50 parts by weight of olive oil and 50 parts by weight of diethylene glycol stearate. This imparts a softer waxing to the yarn and is more suitable for closely knitted warp knit or circular knit goods than for weaving.

Example VIII We repeat Example VII employing 95 parts diethylene glycol stearate and parts olive oil and dissolve these at 30% concentration in warm naphtha. woven goods.-

Earamp-le IX We prepare a molten mixture of diethylene glycol 50 parts, triethanolamine stearate 50 parts and xylene blue 2 parts and apply this as in Example I molten at approximately 55 C. This is an excellent knitting finish and the yarn is tinted a distinctive green-blue. The yarn scours readily in warm water and the color is fugitive to all yarns in neutral and alkaline baths.

This finish is more suitable for closely- Example X We prepare a molten mixture of '75 part. naphtha, 23 parts triethanolamine stearate and 2 parts violet 5 BK and apply this as in Example I at 55 C. This is also an excellent knitting or weaving finish suitable for both weft and warp in woven goods and scours readily in warm water and does not color any other yarns in neutral or alkaline baths.

Example XI An emulsion is prepared of 1.5% diethylene glycol stearate and 98.5% water at 65 C. Hanks of cellulose acetate 'yarn are immersed and worked in this and then allowed to air dry after which they are rewound on a suitable package. This applies approximately 3% of the emulsifiable wax to the yarn and the improved textile properties of preceding examples are imparted to the yarn.

Example XII I Example XI is repeated, employing monoethanolamine stearate instead of diethylene glycol stearate.

While in the" foregoing specification we have cited specific instances and examples, as we have stated it is not our intention to limit the scope of our invention thereby. Obviously many modifications may be employed without departing from the spirit of the invention.

Emulsifiable waxes and their adulterants, tints, hardeners and softeners may be applied in any textile processing either molten or from solution such as in twisting, pirning, warping, slasher sizing. Goods made from such yarns may be treated by any scouring and dyeing process,

for instance, on winches, jigs, open soapers, in

hanks of fabric, on the string and so on. The waxes emulsify readily and have the peculiar advantage of remaining in a finely divided state of emulsion even aftervcooling, thereby passing through drain lines, etc. without any choking.

All fabrics made according to the process of our invention, in scouring, shed dirt marks, oil stains and the like, remarkably freely and quickly as we have before stated. Anobvious modification of our process is to scour such goods only partially, which partial scouring may be effected by scouring at a temperature barely at the melting point or temperature required to emulsify- I their esters may be employed as addition andcarrying agents. Also to any of the above waxlike bodies triethanolamin e may be added to dissolve free steal-ates etc. or ethylene-diamine may be used in place of or with the triethanolamine.

Sulphonated naphthalene may be added to the mixture such as diethylene glycol stearate and mineral oil. When a wax-like body is carried in a light mineral oil and applied to the yarn while molten or -in solution it forms a transparent covering making possible the selection of lustre.

Stockings knitted from yarn processed with the wax-like bodies may be dyed in a nest in a drum machine without prominent creases. and

. the twisted yarn.

without the necessity of delustering them by boiling beforehand.

The yarn processed with the Wax-like bodies meets the demand for a good soft size in the ribbon trade;

The application of the wax-like bodies to a yarn reduces considerably the amount of static electricity generated in the future processing of the yarn thereby preventing separation of the filaments with resulting better cover properties and less breaks. The property of the yarn to generate static charges is especially reduced if there is a slight excess of triethanolamine, ethylene-diamine or similar compounds present in the wax-like solution.

Wax-like bodies with or without softeners, carriers, addition agents, sizes, dyes, or effect materials may be applied to staple fibres made of cellulose acetate'or other organic derivative of cellulose either prior to their being cut from continuous filaments, or after their formation, or after spinning thereby preventing ball effects on the fabric made therefrom. The balling effeet is caused by the loose ends rubbing into a knot over the surface of a knit fabric.

By way of describing our invention still further and not with the intention of limiting its scope thereby, we give the following specific examples of winding our treated yarn.

Example XIII We spin'at a feed rate of metres per minute by the dry evaporative method an acetone soluble cellulose acetate yarn of 150 denier 40 filaments with little or no twist and Wind directly onto a cheese. Between the thread exit guide from the spinning cabinet and the cheese we cause the yarn to contact with a furnishing roller or other suitable device furnishing 4% diethylene glycol stearate from a 30% solution in naphtha at 50 C. The traverse speed of strokes per minute is maintained. The cheeses wound on tubes of 1 diameter and 4" in length and up to 4 in diameter, thus making cheeses containing two or more pounds of yarn. The cheeses so obtained are firm and may be shipped even with vigorous handling without becoming softened or losing their ability to deliver freely and cleanly in subsequent textile processing and exhibit other improved properties.

Example XIV Example XV We repeat Example XIV with a feed rate of 200 metres per minute and reduce the amounts of wax-like body to 2% with substantially the.

same results.

The treating of yarn with wax-like bodies enables the use and handling of untwisted or low twist yarn for purposes and in like manner to The covering of synthetic yarn at the metier with a wax-like body gives better ageing qualities to the yarn. ['he waxlike bodies retard the evaporation of the cellulose solvent, as acetone, keeping the yarn in better knitting condition.

In the foregoing specification we have cited specific instances and examples, but it is not' our intention that the scope of our invention should be limited thereby, as obviously many modifications may be made without departing from the spirit ,of the invention. Obviously such yarn may be treated with the wax-like bodies before, between, after or during twistingoperations or winding operations. The wax-like bodies may be incorporated in the spinning dope or inserted into the yarn by the action of swelling agents.

Having described our invention, what we desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. Method of improving the textile properties of yarns or filaments containing substitution derivatives of cellulose in which the substituent group is organic, which comprises forming a coating thereon by applying thereto a molten wax-like applying thereto a molten wax-like body, selected from the group consisting of the higher fatty acid esters of diand poly-hydric alcohols and the salts of alkylolamines with higher fatty acids, in the absence of water, said wax-like body being inherently readily removable by scouring with aqueous liquid, and thereafter causing the waxlike body to solidify on said yarns or filaments by cooling.

3. Method of producing fabric of improved properties, which comprises applying to yarn, containing cellulose acetate and not having a twist of more than 1.5 turns per inch, a molten Wax-like body, selected from the group consisting of the higher fatty acid esters of diand polyhydric alcohols and the salts of alkylolamines with higher fatty acids, in the absence of water, said wax-like body being inherently readily removable by scouring with aqueous liquid, causing the wax-like bodyto solidify on said yarn by cooling, forming said wax-coated yarn into fabric and then securing said fabric with aqueous liquid.

4. In the method of producing a spun yarn comprising staple or short lengths of filaments containing a substitution derivative of cellulose in which the substituent group is organic, the step of applying thereto a molten wax-like body, selected from the group consisting of the higher fatty acid esters of diand poly-hydric alcohols and the salts of alkylolamines with higher fatty acids, in the absence of water, said wax-like body being inherently readily removable by scouring with aqueous liquid, and causing said wax-like body to solidify on said filaments by cooling.

5. A solid, non-slipping, cross-wound package of the fiangeless type comprising yarns containing a substitution derivative of cellulose in which the substituent group is organic, said yarns not having a twist of more than 1.5 turns per inch and being coated, in the absence of water, with a waxlike body, selected from the group consisting of the higher fatty acid esters of diand poly-hydric alcohols and the salts of alkylolamines with higher fatty acids, said wax-like body being inherently readily removable by scouring with aqueous liquid.

6. A solid, non-slipping, cross-wound package of the fiangeless type comprising yarns containing cellulose acetate, said yarns not having a twist of more than 1.5 turns per inch and being coated, in the absence of water, with a wax-like body, selected from the group consisting of the higher fatty acid esters of diand poly-hydric alcohols and the saltsof alkylolamines with higher fatty acids, said wax-like body being inherently.

readily removable by scouring with aqueous liquid. I

7. A fabric comprising yarns containing cellulose acetate rand not having a twist of more than 1.5 turns per inch and coated, in the absence of diand poly-hydric alcohols and the salts of alkylolamines with higher fatty acids, said waxlike body being inherently readily removable by scouring with aqueous liquid.

8. A knit fabric comprising yarns containing a substitution derivative of cellulose in which the substituent group is organic, said yarns not having a twist of more than 1.5 turns per inch and being coated, in the absence of water with diethylene glycol stearate, said diethylene glycol stearate being inherently readily removable by scouring with aqueous liquid.

- CAMIILE DREYFUS.

WILLIAM WHITEHEAD. 

